Venice eats

church  i Frari

Alla Palanca
Estro Vino e Cucina
El Refolo

Eating

In winter some of Venice's restaurants are draughty and empty of atmosphere and clients. But there are good places for a snug lunch or intimate dinner. La Zucca (Santa Croce 1762) - my top Venetian restaurant - has small, wood-lined interiors and very warming food at decent prices. In cold weather, it would be hard to find a better pasta dish than their tagliatelle with gorgonzola and pine nuts. Another cosy spot, with smaller dishes and higher prices, is the Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti (Fondamenta della Toletta, Dorsoduro 1169/A), where you can perch on a stool or at small tables and watch the busy foot traffic along the canalside through big windows.

A posh hot chocolate in the frescoed rooms of Caffè Florian, on St. Marks' Square, will set you back more than 10 euros, but give you access to the ghosts of Goldoni, Casanova and Byron. They even make a delicious hot chocolate with mint called the Casanova. For a cheaper and authentically Venetian experience, pop into one of the many marvellous pasticcerie - pastry shops with a bar serving hot drinks - that dot Venice's lanes. My favourite is Tonolo (Calle di San Pantalon), in Dorsoduro, where a dainty little hot chocolate in a pretty blue and white china cup and saucer will only cost a couple of euros, and can be consumed standing by the counter with Venetian firefighters, elderly ladies in furs, and workers popping in for a dose of sugar

This city is so spectacular, that you will need at least three days to enjoy some of its wonders. Spend a day in a gondola at the narrow channels and be amazed by Venice. Go to Murano, the Venetian glassmaking center, or visit some of the famous places near the St Marks Square:

• Basilica: the place where you can see Pala d’Oro. This famous altarpiece dates since 976. It is made of solid gold by the Byzantine goldsmiths and it has precious gems encrustations.
• Doge’s Palace: situated right to the Basilica. You can see the Council Hall, plaques of the Doges (all 76, except Doge 55) and the world-famous Bridge of Sighs (the last walking place for the criminals before their transfer from the palace into the jail).
• Campanile: dating since 912. The Campanile is the third building you have to see. There is astonishing city view from the top of it. This is not the exact original of the building, but a rebuilding with the original materials after its collapse in 1902.

 In winter, shops are closed on Monday morning, while in summer it's usually Saturday afternoon. Most grocers are closed on Wednesday afternoon year-round. In Venice, just about everything is closed on Sunday, though tourist shops in the tourist spots such as the San Marco area are permitted to stay open during high season.

If you come out of season: Pack your warm clothes and layers, keeping in mind that Venice is a city where you get around either by boat or by walking (both of which are cold options in the winter!).

https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/venice/winter-december-january-february

Rialto market closed Sun-Mon

 sights may have shorter hours – many close as early as 5pm – and there will be fewer activities available. February, during Carnevale, is the exception, when rates are high, crowds are vast and there are numerous events to take part in. This season can bring some flooding, particularly at St. Mark’s Square