Rome eats

Where to eat

So much of Rome's traditional cuisine – with its carbs and offal – seems designed for winter eating. To sample cucina romana, head for staid but reliable La Campana (687 5273; www.ristorantelacampana.com), Vicolo della Campana 18. Tuck into classic versions of dishes such ascoda alla vaccinara – ox tail in oxtail broth.

Warming Roman specialities such as pasta e ceci (a thick soup of chickpea purée, rosemary and short pasta) make the lunch-only trattoria Enoteca Corsi (679 0821, www.enotecacorsi.com), Via del Gesù 87-88, a good cold-weather standby.

And if the Sistine Chapel has given you an appetite, then head for Isola della Pizza (3973 3483; www.isoladellapizza.com), at Via degli Scipioni 45, in the nearby Prati district, where wood-oven pizzas are supplemented by steaks and cutlets from a huge open grill.